It's me again. I thought everything was fine after resetting my ECU last week, but had bad misfiring at idle again this morning which set the random misfire code. Since it's happening across all cylinders, I'm a bit stumped. My long-term fuel trim as of last week is slightly negative This is after a week of daily driving, mix of highway and city conditions.
The misfiring only happens in open loop mode. Once the car has warmed up and switched over, it runs perfectly. It seems that it's running too rich, as I get a fair bit of gray smoke out of the exhaust as it's stumbling. Failing O2 sensors? Failing idle-control valve? Time to give up and take it to the shop?
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What should I look for in my scanning software? Random misfire plus misfire in 2 and 4. It was the high pressure fuel pump.
After letting it sit overnight, the dealership was able to reproduce the issue and replaced the pump under the extended warranty. The car is driving like it did when I bought it two years ago. No more trouble starting, no more stumbling when accelerating when cold. I had identical issue.
Misfires all cylinders. Replaced HPFP, coils, walnut blast. Engine limp mode returns. Finally checked fuel filter 75k miles. Very dirty. Runs like new. Clean the IACV. Sometimes it does the trick. Which grade and type of fuel does it run on? Had the same problem. After compression check found no4 cylinder had low compression at around Thought the worse but the pressure was holding so no leak down.
Turned out to be an easy fix. Removed the rocker cover and inspected the valve springs for breakages none found. Removed the exhaust tappit rail.Tags: engine idle lightopinions rough.
Most Liked Posts. LoriK New Member. For the past week or so, Mini has a rough idle at cold start up after sitting overnight. It's not hard to start, but the idle is pretty rough for a minute, until it warms up. Seems to be running fine otherwise.Lindice uv
Yesterday morning, the check engine light came on about a minute after starting. My local Mini specialist is in the process of moving and can't see me for 2 weeks. I don't trust the dealer bad past experience and can't stand the constant upsell So, I took Mini to a local European Automobile Specialist. Any Mini aficionados out there care to chime in before I proceed? Have you ever changed your plugs or had your valves cleaned yet. Most people have the valves cleaned by having a service done that uses a walnuts in a sandblaster Type of machine.
What type of fuel octane rating do you buy? Thanks for the reply. I only use 93 octane. I have not changed the plugs or had the walnut blasting. Like x 1 List. As Dave says, it sounds like carbon build up on the valves, a bi product of the direct injected engine.
It's walnut blasting time. Assuming it's carbon build-up, do you think it's okay to drive for a couple of weeks with the engine light on, until my Mini specialist is up and running in their new location?Tags: cold idling issues misfire random rough start. Most Liked Posts. Hi guys, need some advice. Trying to figure out what's causing this old reliable 02MCS to act up this past week.
Engine has never used up oil, never had to top it. These are the issues I've noticed:!. It starts instantly every morning but stumbles a coupla times before idle stabilizes as temp rises. Always starts on 1st try though.
Huge difference there! At operating temp, idle is stable Been running ethanol free premium gas. Might be a bad fill up? Which is best? Hope to get it back to how it used to be. I'm crossing my fingers this is nothing serious. Maybe Khuevo could chime in? Thanks, guys! Wow, that's low mileage for an ' First off, I'd throw in a can of redline fuel system cleaner and give it the italian tune up.
See if that helps, it often does. Like x 1 List. Jason Montague New Member. Thanks for your replies, guys! Keep em comin'. Anyone tried similar symptoms? Kinda annoying at start up. Strange thing is cold start up turns engine instanly but gets a minute of rough idling, while when warm, engine turns after a bit of longer cranking but idles well.
Off to trying advices Thanks for chiming right in K-huevo. Really admire the work you do! When Belt was replaced a coupla days ago, it still looked good, though thinner, of course. No overheating. Dunno if that compunds more moisture into the tank. I'll definitely replace plugs.
Toggle can't switch it off. It turns off after every engine restart restart though. Any ideas on longer cranking issue when engine's warm? Apologies for such a long post.Tags: dreaded idle stall.
Most Liked Posts. Msfitoy Member. I seem to recall some R53 were plagued with this "occasional" low idle behavior that occurs maybe once every other day for me anyway when coming to a stop at a light. The problem? Annoying as chit Something to do with emissions and the stock ecu.
I forget exactly what it is. Could be: Carbon canister purge at an inopportune moment. Start of summer fuel formulation. Perfect storm - early stock program, low idle setting, weak fuel pulse regulator diaphragm, failing spark plug wires, dirty injector filter Like x 2 List.
ScottinBend Space Cowboy. Next morning it would do the idle stumble almost everytime. Norm03s New Member. May 5, 4, 0 Working at being retired. Somewhere in Sykesville. My 03 just did it this morning, it stalled on start up, hasn't happened in a long time. Here's the thing, I have always used 93 octane, the last tank full I thought I would see how it ran on 89 octane. It seemed to run pretty good nothing happened different, mileage about the same. So yesterday afternoon I filled up with 93 octane and it stalled this morning, then on restart it ran fine.
Nathan Founder. I have something similar and it has been present since new. MINI is warmed up in all cases. If left in gear till RPMs drop to and then placed in Neutral there is no stall.
This has been going on for so long that I adjust my driving style to prevent stalls. Jason Montague New Member.Tags: car difference engine misfire swap. Most Liked Posts.
Diagnosing RPM Idle Issues in a MINI Cooper
Hello all, new to the forum. Hope someone can help. Just purchased this Mini Cooper Non Turbo 70k miles and developed this problem. After the car warms up to operating temperature It develops a bad mis. Code reader shows p and p Misfire on cylinder 3. Engine shaking violently then a Knock comes.
Lots of hesitation when take off and smoke out tailpipe. Has anyone had this issue. Not close to a Mini Dealer, and really don't trust them anyway.Google sheets web app
Thank in Advance. MCS02 Moderator. Welcome to MA! Sorry I can't help I am a gen1 guy, but one of our gen2 guys will be along soon that a Can help.Tpad 2019
Many thanks Hey thanks for the Welcome. Welcome Aboard! I too have a gen 1 but I'll try to help anyway. If you run hard when it's warm is it okay? If so then it sounds like your not getting fuel.
That could be anything from clogged injectors, dirty fuel filter, or bad pump. Was the code for the same cylinder after you changed plugs and coils? Welcome to MA. Where are you located?0xc00000ba download windows 7
Because you may have very bad Carbon build up on the back of the valves that may need cleaned by a Walnut Blasting. You just have to find someone besides the Stealership that has the tools to do it and they are much cheaper than the Stealership.
Do you think I should swap injectors before purchasing one? Still gett p code too lean idle I will get a fuel filter and try that. I though the carbon buildup thing was with the turbo models on exhaust valves.
Thanks Dave. O In the morning when cold its starts fine, runs fine 3 minutes later after something warms up it misfires. Is it possible the Crank position Senor is the culprit?The Dangers Of A Bad Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Valve Solenoid
But the thought that there might be a hotspot in the cylinder, like carbon, causing the pre-ignition might have merit Plug looks ok? Any chance you tried a compression check?
Usually compression goes UP as a motor warms up, masking issues, likewise with higher rpms. Haven't tried compression check yet, guess i need to borrow a tester. Number 3 plug did have more carbon on it when I pulled the plug.
MINI Solves the R56 Cold Start Issue
Cleaned it in my media blast cabinet. Then switched it, same problem.Bimmer was a wonderful performance car but at K miles it was definitely a liability. After 4 years of ownership the car proved to be as reliable as a Toyota Corolla…until now.Simple jquery timepicker
Of course, most newer cars will run great for the first thousand miles anyway. Well, not quite I guess. When I started the car one morning the RPMs were all over the place instead of staying high for a minute and then dropping below 1, after warm up as usual.
Now the RPMs were bouncing between and 1, The engine seemed like it was going to stall. I drove it to work and it was perfectly fine on a highway but anytime I came to a stop the RPMs would start jumping around and the car actually stalled a few times.
There was obviously an issue with the idle. Here is a video showing bouncing surging RPMs after driving 30 minutes on a highway. My foot is off the gas the entire time:. I started by checking the easy things first. Gas cap securely on? Engine air filter clean? Oil dipstick firmly in place and not loose?
Engine oil level OK? Everything checked out. I bought a can of carb cleaner and sprayed around the intake manifold to see for any change in engine speed, which is a tried and true method for quickly finding leaks. Nothing suspicious there. Next I took off the intake boot that connects the air-box with the throttle body.
The rubber can crack over time and create a leak that will mess with the idle. This gave me a chance to clean the mass airflow sensor MAF which is inside the intake boot. The erratic RPM issue still continued. The car was driveable so I decided to wait and see if the CEL will come on. A couple of days later when the Mini was experiencing a particularly violent shudder at idle, the engine stalled out and the CEL finally went on.
I pulled these codes with my trusty engine error code reader :. Looks scary but at least now I had something to work with.
Lots of different things can cause any of these error codes but again, a sensible approach is to try some easier stuff first before moving on to parts replacement. There are dozens of sensors supplying critical information to the ECU at all times.
I do know for a fact that sensors can and do fail even at 50, miles — especially on European cars. First I tested the intake and exhaust camshaft sensors using my multimeter. It is very easy to do if you follow these exceptional instructions from Pelican Parts. Both sensors seemed to respond and work as expected. If it did, it would be a good indication that one of the sensors is bad, usually the one that the error would follow. This is a little more involved than the camshaft sensor test but still relatively easy if you follow another great set of instructions from Pelican Parts.
After cleaning the solenoids with brake cleanerblowing off with compressed airswapping locations, reinstalling and clearing the error codes the idling problem did seem to become a bit less apparent but it could be the placebo effect talking.
The codes came back after a day of driving as well.Score difference is relative to team with possession.
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