When dealing with wall-mounted toilets, you may at some point encounter a situation where your toilet pan connector needs to be repaired. Although this can be a relatively simple job, there are several steps that need to be taken to ensure that you do not make an excessive mess or damage your toilet system. If you do find that your pan connector is cracked or leaking, it will be best to simply replace the piece completely, rather than trying to patch it as a quick fix.
Pan connectors are relatively inexpensive and the replacement will be a more long-term solution in the end. When you are undertaking any project dealing directly with plumbing or water supply, turning off the water will almost always be your first step.Unity mirror clientrpc
Aside from creating a gigantic mess that you will need to clean up, leaking water can cause flooding that can severely damage your home, requiring more money spent to fix this new problem. Additionally, due to high water pressure contained in many water pipes, failure to turn off your water could cause injuries if a pipe bursts or sprays.
To avoid all of these issues, be sure to turn off water before continuing onto the next step. After turning off the main water line into your house, flush the toilet to remove the vast majority of the water. You will almost certainly leave some water in the toilet somewhere, but it is best to remove as much as possible before proceeding.
Looking at the back of the toilet, where the wall meets the piping, you will find the pan connector. This piece fits between the bowl pan of your toilet and the wall. Your next step will be to completely remove this connector, which can typically be done by hand in simply unscrewing the connector pieces. One thing to note about this step is that there will almost certainly be some amount of water in the pan connector when you disconnect it.
Be aware of this fact and take some precaution to avoid getting water all over your floor. A bucket or a handful of towels will usually work well for this purpose. After purchasing a new pan connector of the same type or a compatible model from a hardware or plumbing supply store, install the new connector in the space where the old connector used to be connected.
Again, you should be able to screw this part on my hand. After reseating the toilet, you will want to secure the housing to the floor with the bolts you previously removed. After doing so, turn on the water and test the system to make sure everything is working well.A leaking toilet cistern or toilet can waste as much as an astonishing litres of water a day.Toilet leaking from cistran and pan connector
You could be wasting precious water, causing damage to your home, costing yourself money, wasting valuable eco resources and all without even noticing! It is likely that if your toilet cistern is leaking onto the floor you will notice it very quickly and deal with it immediately. If the outdoor overflow is running you will likely notice it within a day or two and fix it quite quickly, however most modern cisterns are designed to overflow into the pan and a slow but steady flow of this type is the type of leak that can cause a waste of water of the type mentioned above.
Isolating the water is made easier if you have previously fitted isolation valves — this means you can turn off the isolating valves rather than the main stop cock, so that the water is on all over the house except to the cistern that you want to work on. If you have a modern push button toilet mechanism where the overflow runs into the pan then the leak is difficult to spot, but you might notice your water bills are getting higher.
Here is some advice on spotting a leak provided by Thames Water :. If you have discovered a leak the next section tells you how to deal with a cistern that keeps leaking. If your push button toilet cistern keeps running it can be caused by a bit of grit or limescale getting into the mechanism. Sometimes this can be dislodged by giving the button a few short sharp taps, or by flushing both buttons and holding them down to ensure the cistern drains fully.
If you have a leak onto the floor and you have a close-coupled toilet the most likely cause is that the cistern and the toilet need to be fitted a precisely 90 degrees — see our project on Close Coupled Toilet leaks here.
If you have water leaking from the cistern and you have a low level toilet then it is likely to be the seal around the pipe where the water comes into the cistern or where it leaves the cistern to flow into the pan. You will be able to tell where the water is coming from by wiping the whole area dry and then using a paper towel to wipe around the joints to see where the water is getting out. If your toilet only leaks when the toilet is flushed then it is more likely that the leak is coming from the coupling to the waste pipe for the toilet.
Just check that it is in fact a leak and not condensation. You will be surprised how much water can condense on a cold cistern if the air around it is warm and humid — see more about how to solve this problem in our project about condensation on toilet cisterns.
If it is not condensation and not coming from any of the plumping joints then it could be that you have a cracked cistern, in which case it is much better to replace the cistern.
The water level in the cistern is controlled by an adjustable float or ballcock. If the float is set too high then the water level also gets too high, so water runs into the overflow.
We've decided to use it as an excuse to get the whole bathroom refitted. But obviously this'll take time several months. We need to use the toilet in the mean time, so how bad an idea is it to caulk around the base to stop the dirty water dribbling out onto the floor until we can get the whole thing replaced? Do not wait, pull the toilet up and replace the seal and make whatever necessary repairs as soon as possible.
You don't know where that nasty waste water will end up if you seal it in. In the UK, you can also almost certainly disregard advice about wax rings which are used in the US where plumbing arrangements differ. In general if you have a leak, you need to find the source and replace the seal. In your case this might be the push-fit plastic flexible connector 7 between ceramic toilet 5,6 and plastic soil-pipe 8 below.
Obviously the issue is removing the close-coupled cistern and toilet. This is usually achievable on a DIY basis. Obviously there is something different about yours since your plumber mentioned concrete preventing them fixing the leak.
I suggest you edit the question above to insert photos showing 1 whole toilet 2 connection to soil pipe 3 how the toilet is attached to floor. That way people can offer better advice. If your toilet is leaking somewhere underneath, you might be able to use caulk to temporarily contain a small pool of raw sewage within the outer perimeter of the toilet base but it isn't something I would be happy about, particularly if the floor is OSB or similar.
Especially if this is upstairs. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Is it a bad idea to temporarily caulk a toilet base leak? Ask Question. Asked 4 years ago. Active 4 years ago. Viewed 4k times. It's on the ground floor, if that makes any difference. JonW JonW 2 2 silver badges 8 8 bronze badges.
You are in the UK, most UK toilets have a rearward waste connection not downward. Is your toilet different?FAQ on Coronavirus and Mefi : check before posting, cite sources; how to block content by tags. Rubber behind the toilet sprung a leak - can I fix it by myself?
Plumbing help please - toilet waste adaptor thingy leaking
What is it called and how do you replace it? Does the whole toilet need to be taken out? If your 'gasket' is a sort of flexible rubber pipe, then in the UK these are called pan connectors no idea what they're called elsewhere.
Sometimes there's an extra rubber piece between the toilet and the pipe usually an offset connector. This is also easy to replace. Replacing these things is generally very straightforward and cheap.Python 3d spline interpolation
They don't tend to fail very often. Whether you have to move the toilet out will depend on how much access you have to the existing pan connector. Often this too is quite easy, and involves unscrewing a pair of screws on either side of the toilet that anchor it to the floor. These usually screw into brackets attached to the floor, so when moving the toilet, you may have to lift it over the brackets. Also, check the cold water pipe where it attaches to the cistern - usually it's a flexible pipe, allowing the toilet to be moved around, but sometimes you'll need to shut off the water to this pipe at the valve and unscrew it before moving the toilet.
Oh, and keep old towels and a jug handy, just in case something goes wrong. And a bag for the old connector, as it's inclined to be a little bit, well, dirty. Oh, also the gasket may just be part of the pan connector, where it joins the toilet some types do have a gasket. You'd still replace the whole pan connector though. Hi - This is a very old system - it's basically a rubber seal that directly connects the porcelain to the PVC pipe - like this Question is would I need to remove the entire toilet to remove the old one or could I get away popping the PVC pipe from out of the old one, removing the old gasket, putting on a new one and popping the PVC pipe back into place without disturbing the toilet seat from the floor.
The answer is totally dependent on how much freedom the PVC pipe has to move. You will have to move it out of the gasket, replace the rubber gasket, and refit the pipe.
Unless you can move the pipe mm back, the pan will have to come off. You will need to assess exactly how much easier cutting the pipe will make the job, preferably before making the cut! It may not be age that has caused this problem, some cleaning products can rot the rubber quickly - don't ask me how I know this, or how to replace the gasket Wor I'll try to wiggle the PVC free and see how that goes.
I am trying to fit a new WC and couple it to the waste pipe. The position of the new toilet is about 4" to the left and 1 foot out from the waste pipe which has a been fitted with a Multikwik 90 deg bend to convert it from the vertical to the horizontal. The coupling here is quite sound. My friendly plumbers merchant recommended a Multikwik flexi connector but this has proved ineffective due to the tightness of space - the coupling direct to the pan is under a sideways stress and causes a leak here.
I have now fitted a 45deg Multikwik with a solid pipe but again there is a persisitent leak not all the time but just after the toilet is flushed. The joints have been fitted exactly to the maker's instructions and are a really tight fit. I am wondering whether using 2 couplings in tandem is a no-no even though they look fine, or whether a 45deg bend followed by a 90 deg bend is just too much for the flushing pressure.
Also how much fall is recommended from pan to the waste pipe? Any advice would be appreciated - I've been bu Whoa you can see it we cant, any chance of taking a photo?We've just had a new bathroom fitted and have noticed there is water sitting underneath the toilet base. I first discovered this when I noticed that the grout lines in our tiles either side of the toilet were wet.
We've checked all round the pipes and connections, and there's no water present, it can only be coming from under the toilet itself. I can slide a couple of sheets of kitchen roll or a tea towel under the base of the toilet we held off sealing it to the floor from front to back and they start sucking up water around level with the fixings to the floor.
Troubleshooting a Toilet That Is Leaking From the Base
When I slide the paper or towel back out it is sodden Is it possible that on a brand new toilet there is a very fine crack or fault in the porcelain that would be invisible to the naked eye? Salles de Bains. It happened to me once. The pan had a small crack in the porcelain trap and was continuously dripping tiny amount of water. I'm quite sure from what you describe it's the toilet. It's not the installer's fault, this is very rare to happen. It's probably 1 in thousands.
Don't leave it too long cause it will rotten the floor. Mark Gentleman Plumbing.
Sanitary ware has vague manufacturing tolerances at best so it is possible that there is a crack. Also for the same reason the outlet may not be fully round and could be causing a leak, I have had this problem before. Ashworth Plumbing.
I have recently had a extra toilet fitted in my bathroom which is located next door to an existing toilet. The new extra Hi, My apartment has two soil stacks on opposite ends of the apartment. One soil stack currently has the toilet upstairs Ask a tradesman.
Like 2. Don't leave it too long cause it will rotten the floor Kind regards Kosta. I would recommend a miltikwik pan connector as they are fully flexible.
I won! Coronavirus: The latest from MSE The MSE team is working extremely hard to keep the info we have about your travel rights, cancellation rights, sick pay and more up to date. BlondeHeadOn Forumite 2. As you might be able to tell from the thread title, plumbing is not my strong point!
MY OH is very practical, but isn't very knowledgable about plumbing, so we are not sure how big a job this will turn out to be.
I'll try a non-technical explanation of the problem: Where the toilet joins at the back waste pipe is leaking. It joins to a big wide pipe thingy with the 90 degree plastic adaptor, and it is the latter which has sprung a leak. It look like the neoprene-type seal which is built into the plastic adaptor has split, and is leaking. It looks like it has been leaking a bit for some time, just a little every time the toliet is flushed.
It doesn't leak if we don't flush the loo. Anyone recognise this kind of problem, and can tell us how big a job this is to fix? We are considering calling a plumber on Monday if all else fails, but it would be helpful to know whether this is a big job or smallish and easy fix if the latter we might be able to do it ourselves? Or is is not that kind of job. All suggestions gratefully accepted! Sounds like you just need a new pan connector. This is quite DIYable but be aware that you may, depending on your precise circumstances, have to remove the cistern and release the pan from the floor to change it.
Based on your description it would be helpful to have a pic so that someone can give you a steer as to the correct pan connector to go out and buy. The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. If you mean the flush pipe is leaking, then its not that hard to fix your self. We don't want to learn from this. This has just made me laugh out loud though, so thank you! I think keystone has identified it spot on, it is the pan connector.
I think we may get a plumber to do this though, if it may involve moving the cistern and pan etc. BTW I'm not planning on an emergency call-out, we have another loo and it can wait until next week to be sorted.
OP is describing what your image calls the "smelly end".Mainstage worship
Any chance of reducing the size of that image BTW - 'tis rather large Cheers. Whilst the 'proper' way to fix this is to remove cistern, remove pan, replace connector and pan, replace cistern - there may be mileage in merely applying some sealant tape around the outside of the existing connector.Xerox 013r00591
If it's not dripping constantly, then the leaking area should be dry if you leave the WC unflushed for a day or so. There may also be mileage in plastering it with silicone sealant, but there's the possibility this may not adhere to pipe or connector, depending on materials.
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